Another great day filming with Iain Sinclair yesterday for the London Overground film. We wandered from Shadwell down to the Thames at Wapping taking the Old Stairs onto the Thames foreshore where Iain read an extract from his book Downriver.
You can see Iain talk about London Overground at the Transport Museum on Wednesday 20th Jan where we’ll also screen a short selection of footage from the film.
Onto the No.339 bus down to Shadwell in search of the locations of a series of old photos in Wonderful London (circa 1926) of two sets of the old Watermen’s Stairs on the Thames. This beguiling picture above is of the Ratcliffe Cross Stairs. The caption reads: “.. an ancient and much used landing place and point of departure of a ferry. There is a tradition that Sir Martin Frobisher took boat here for his ship when starting on his voyage to find the North-West Passage.”
Ratcliffe Cross Stairs
This is the Ratcliffe Cross Stairs today (or at least that is what I’ve deduced from old maps and descriptions of the location, at the junction of Broad Street, Shadwell and Narrow Street, Limehouse) protruding out from the bottom of a block of flats as the lunchtime City joggers pound across the wooden bridge above. The Watermen of the 21st Century cruising past in their City Clipper tour boats.
Wonderful London also offers this view of the Thames from the muddy foreshore at Shadwell at Low Tide looking eastwards.
No barges marooned on the shore the day I was there – the Towers of Mammon rising around the river bend on the Isle of Dogs.
Running down from the historic Prospect of Whitby pub (dating from 1520) are the Pelican Stairs, where on the shore some wag has erected a noose in honour of the ‘Hanging’ Judge Jeffries who was a regular at the Prospect.
King Henry’s Stairs
Heading West along Wapping High Street you encounter King Henry’s Stairs. Although these historic riverside rights of way have been preserved, some have been allowed to slowly decay.
Wonderful London describes Wapping Old Stairs as “one of liveliest spots in the country” in the great days of the maritime Thames.
Wapping Old Stairs today
“but the swaggering sailormen and the loathly crew of bullies and harridans who prey on these Jack Juncks and Bill Bobstays during their few days ashore have, happily, gone as completely as the foul dens that harboured them” – Wonderful London
Wapping Old Stairs video with the sound of the Thames lapping against the stone steps