A walk around the town of Ramsgate

Exploring the seaside town of Ramsgate on the Isle of Thanet in Kent

In these dark days of midwinter and Tier 4 Covid restrictions, it’s comforting to look back at this summer walk around Ramsgate with my wife and my sister.

The walk starts in Ellington Road where we talk about the tunnels that run beneath the streets from Ellington Park to the seafront. From here we pass through Vale Square, past Vinyl Head records to Addington Street with the Falstaff Hotel where Wellington plotted tactics during the Napoleonic Wars, and the Queen Charlotte pub. We visit the studio of the artist Bob and Roberta Smith who shows us his paintings of Thamesmead in South East London that he’s currently working on. We also look at Bob’s new book, You Are An Artist, which I took the photographs for.

From Bob’s studio we walk along Paragon Street to Royal Crescent and look at the statue of Vincent Van Gogh in Spencer Square and the house where Van Gogh lived in 1878. We also see the school where Van Gogh taught, at 6 Royal Road, Ramsgate. We descend the steep set of steps known as Jacob’s Ladder to Ramsgate Sailors Church at Ramsgate Royal Harbour. Then we walk around the Royal Harbour to the Harbour Arm.

walk around Ramsgate

From the Harbour we pass the Royal Victoria Pavillion pub we walk up Kent Place and look at the tiles inspired by Pugin, designed by local school children. We follow Wellington Crescent to the Plains of Waterloo where Karl Marx stayed in 1879, before heading to Artillery Road where Marx’s daughter, Jenny Marx lived. Continuing along King Street, was pass the Ravensgate Arms, one of the finest pubs in Ramsgate. We then turn into Ramsgate High Street where the walk ends.

 

Cathy Rogers, film-maker http://cargocollective.com/cathyrogers

You Are An Artist – new book by Bob and Roberta Smith

I first met artist Bob and Roberta Smith in the summer of 2009 when I approached him to make a documentary about his work, which became the 2012 film, Make Your Own Damn Art – the world of Bob and Roberta Smith. Ten years later I collaborated with Bob again by taking the photos for his book You Are An Artist (we’ve worked together a number of times in the intervening years). And once again it was an enlightening and highly entertaining experience.

The video above is an extract from an Instagram Live broadcast from Bob’s Leytonstone Garden, summer 2020. Bob is reading from a chapter of the book that describes a ‘psychogeographic’ intervention in we did his campaign to unseat Michael Gove in the 2015 General Election. Bob did a painting about his experience of the algorithmic dérive around the streets, car parks and ring roads of Camberley that ended up in Elle Decor. It was a strange experience to see my name in a painting in a stylish interior design magazine.

Images from You Are An Artist by Bob and Roberta Smith

In 2016 we made a video series for Folkestone Triennal called Folkestone Is An Art School where Bob devised a series of online lessons that demonstrated creative principles used by artists. Shooting an editing those videos changed the way I looked at the creative process. Bob has a gift for opening out the often occluded approach to making art. The book You Are An Artist extends this even further in print form and is a must for anyone interested in making or understanding art. Ok, I am a bit biased because I took the photos but once again working on this book changed the way I look at art.

You Are An Artist

Signed copies of You Are An Artist by Bob and Roberta Smith are available from the brilliant Newham Bookshop

Sweet East London Walk – Forest Gate, Upton Park, Plaistow

Trebor Walk through Forest Gate and Upton Park to Plaistow

When one walk begets another something magical happens. Stopping to admire a fine industrial building on Woodford Avenue on a Sunday afternoon drift to Chigwell, I mussed to my camera that I had no idea what it had been, but it always caught my eye. Several people in the YouTube comments informed me that this had once been the Headquarters of Trebor, the iconic confectionary company. A quick search online revealed that the company had actually started life in nearby Forest Gate, and that their 1930s HQ was still intact despite being struck by a bomb during the Second World War. It became an irrestitable focus for an East London quest.

The route I devised for the video above would loop together a number of resonant locations in the area:

Tylney Road – The Tylneys were incredibly wealthy and owned lots of estates including Wanstead House. The road aligns with Wanstead Park on the far side of the Flats.

Manor Park Cemetery – the grave of Jack Cornwell who was postumously awarded the VC at the age of 16 for bravery at the Battle of Jutland in 1916. Serving on HMS Chester, the ship came under attack and the gun crew were killed or mortally wounded. Cornwell was shredded with shrapnel but continued to man the last gun stood alone on deck where he was found full of shrapnel still looking down the sights waiting for further orders.

Trebor Building, Katherine Road – Trebor got their sugar from Tate at Canning Town – there was a Trebor Terrace in Katherine Road near where they built their factory.  Other sweets produced at the time included Mixed Fruit Drops, Rock Allsorts, Pineapple Drops and Pear Drops. This Art Deco factory was built in the 1930s on the site of the original factory. The warehouse was hit by a bomb in 1944 and had to be protected from sugar looters. The Green and white of the building matches the colours of extra strong mints. Trebor moved their HQ to Woodford Avenue in the 1950s. Read more here

Green Street and Queen’s Market – the Eastern Boundary of the old Borough of West Ham. In 1086 West Ham had a population of 130

Upton Park ‘Boleyn Ground’ – merger with Boleyn Castle FC in 1904 produced West Ham United. Ann Boylen stayed at Green Street House.

Barking Road – the West Ham Statue, the Tun Marsh – the Barking Road killed off the marsh men of the Plaistow Levels – great grazing land.

Greengate Street – Hook End which was at the end of Greengate St jct with Barking Road.

Plaistow – mentioned in 1414 probably means settlement around a place of play or village green – a village on the marshes. Plaistow Levels – Thomas Burke speaks of Plastovians in The Outer Circle – once a place of city merchants.

Plaistow Park – Part of Plaistow Park is on the grounds of the former Essex House, which dated back to Tudor times, demolished in 1836. West Ham Council acquired the land to create the public park, which opened as Balaam Street Recreation Ground in June 1894.

Doric columns from Wanstead House – bought by local Quakers and used in the portico of North Street Schools (off end of Greengate Street).

 

The Leytonstone Beer Mile

Leyton Food Market

Signature Brew at Leyton Food Market

Now that Waltham Forest has followed Bermondsey and launched the Walthamstow Beer Mile, may I propose another ale stroll for the Borough – the Leytonstone Beer Mile. I mean it might be marginally longer than a mile and extend into Leyton, but that just makes for a better walk between venues.

The Walthamstow Beer Mile

Firstly let’s take a look at the Walthamstow Beer Mile. It’s based along Blackhorse Road with its most southerly end starting in St. James Street (a continuation of Blackhorse Road). The first venue is Pillars Brewery The Untraditional Pub at the Crate Building at 35 St James Street. Pillars are based on Shernhall Street, E17 so the beer has just rolled down the hill to this taproom so should be lovely and fresh. Next up heading north are three close together around Uplands Avenue just off Blackhorse Road and Priestly Way. East London Legends, Trumans, have their Trumans Social Club in Priestly Way. Exhale Brewery are in Uplands Avenue. And the brilliant Signature Brew, who were formerly based in Leyton, relocated to Uplands Business Park. From here it’s a socially responsible stagger along Blackhorse Road to another local stalwart, Wildcard Brewery in Lockwood Way. And nearby is Forest Road Brewing Co. – although their taproom seems to be in Hackney.

That all seems like a fine day out – and there’s plenty of food along the way from supermarkets to chicken shops and probably a few stalls catering to drinkers.

 

The Leytonstone Beer Mile (inc. Leyton)

Leytonstone Beer Mile

The Wanstead Tap

May I now propose the Leytonstone Beer Mile (which extends into Leyton). All but one of these beer emporiums is situated within the arches of the Overground railway. This beer trail would start at the fantastic Wanstead Tap, which although most people would consider this Forest Gate, it is within the Borough of Waltham Forest so is technically considered Leytonstone. This amazing venue has the most fantastic selection of beer and also sells merch for Clapton CFC and even books from time to time (mine was on sale there at one point). From here we move along the Overground a short distance to the Pretty Decent Beer Co. – which is far more than a pretty decent microbrewery and tap room.

You could leave the railway and stroll across the corner of Wanstead Flats to pick up the route by Leytonstone High Road Station, cross the Link Road and in a railway arch on the other side you’ll find the Solvay Society, who brew their Belgian beers not far away in Ilford.

Leytonstone Beer Mile

When you get to Grove Green Road (resisting the temptations of the Heathcote and Star) a few yards up on the right is the beguiling and already essential Filly Brook newly established in a fine black wooden hall. They serve up a great selection of locally brewed beers and you can line your stomach with some delicious Yard Sale Pizza. Making your way back along the railway, past Norlington School, and just before Leyton Midland Road Station is the transcendental Gravity Well – who are worth visiting not just for their cosmic beers but the names are out of this world as well. And this is where the Leytonstone Beer Mile (and a half) ends.

Filly Brook Leytonstone Beer Mile

Filly Brook – taken in February 2020

Hopefully I’ll bump into some of you doing the Leytonstone Beer Mile this weekend.

Talking Pie and Mash & London with Jake Green on IG Live

John Rogers Jake Green

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THE VIDEO

 

Last night I had the immense pleasure of having a great chat with photographer and fellow Leytonstonian, Jake Green on Instagram Live. I provided an essay for Jake’s book Pie and Mash, a photographic document of London’s surviving Pie and Mash Shops, some of which have sadly closed since the book’s publication. In our chat we not only talked about Jake’s book but delved into the roots of this great London culinary tradition as well segueing into the geographical spread of London accents, punk and pies, speciality coffee in Waltham Forest and much more.

Noted Eel and Pie House Leytonstone

Also in our live conversation we preview Jake’s forthcoming Live YouTube event hosted at Noted Eel and Pie House, Leytonstone on December 13th. People signing up in advance enter a draw to win a delivery of Pie and Mash from Noted in time to eat whilst watching the stream. Joining Jake online will be Bob and Robert Cooke from the legendary chain of Cooke’s Pie and Mash shops, alongside a host of other guests including yours truly. It promises to be as transcendent as a double pie and mash with steamed eels from Noted.

Sign up for the Event Here

Kensal Rise Has A Story – Brent Biennial Zoom talk

Last month I did a Zoom talk with the wonderful Kensal Rise Library about the project we’ve been working on for Brent 2020 London Borough of Culture as part of the inaugral Brent Biennial.

I started work on Kensal Rise Has A Story in January 2020 with research in the Brent Archives based in Willesden Green Library, looking at the old Ordnance Survey Maps of the area noting the phases of change that came with the railways. I also looked at resonant news stories from the past and the maps and listings published in the Borough of Willesden Guides of the 1920’s and 30’s.

After scoping out the area on foot, I met with Willesden Local History Society and embarked on walks with some of their members and also recorded some sit down interviews, using old OS maps and archive images to navigate the conversation.

I then interviewed members of the broader community, some who took me on walks, some I interviewed in their homes, others in gardens and allotments, even at work. During lockdown I conducted two of the interviews remotely.

Margaret and Stephanie from Kensal Rise Library provided memorable contributions with their recollections of the campaigns to save this essential hub of the community. They also delved into the deeper history of the area and the connections with All Souls College, Oxford which stretch back to the Middle Ages.

It’s been such a fantastic experience to be able to record the voices of Kensal Rise and embed them in the streets.

Brent Biennial runs until the end of January 2021.

Here’s a playlist of the audio recordings on the sound trail:

And here’s an interview I did with Art Review about the project.

John Rogers Kensal Rise

photo by Roy Mehta (c)