Bloomsbury is of course best known for its literary associations. And rightly so. But its comedy heritage is less celebrated. In this video I set out with a very simple goal – to visit the site used as the exterior location for Bernard Black’s bookshop in the brilliant Channel 4 sitcom – Black Books. And quite by accident, nearly opposite 13 Leigh Street is another great comedy heritage location, The Norfolk Arms, a pub frequented by the mother of the fantastic Kenneth Williams (the Boot in Cromer Street was another of her regular drinking haunts). The Norfolk featured in Williams’ recollections of his early years living the area, having grown up in nearby Marchmont Street.
You also might want to watch this Bloomsbury walk from Red Lion Square to Woburn Place with all sorts of great stories and legends.
Join me on a walking tour of the medieval city of Norwich guided by a group of students from UEA. The walk starts on St Andrew’s Hill and continues past Norwich Halls and the University of the Arts Norwich to the River Wensum. We continue walking the historic streets past the many medieval churches – Norwich is said to have more medieval churches than any city in Europe.
We explore the majestic Norwich Cathedral, built in 1096 which has the second highest spire in England and then walk around the 11th Century Norwich Castle. The students also show us the heart of Norwich nightlife on Prince of Wales Road and the Queen of the Iceni pub by the riverside.
Our walking tour passes the historic market which has been on this site for over 900 years and also the medieval Guildhall built in the early 1400s. We stroll through the beautiful Royal Arcade, built in 1899 and finish our perambulation of this beautiful city in St Benedict’s street. Thanks to Oliver, Liv, Ellie, James and Norbu for the tour of Norwich.
“And so it was that we returned to the valley of the River Brent”
Patrick Keiller, London (1994)
Brent Cross tube station is a place that holds a deep sense of nostalgia for me. It links me back to walks with Nick Papadimitriou. I could almost see him waiting for me on the wooden bench in the ticket hall in 2007. On the way there, it’d only just struck me how apt that I’d chosen a walk along the River Brent to be filmed by an MA student and their friend for her Visual Anthropology project.
A Focus on the River Brent
Being filmed walking a territory I’d filmed someone else walking added an intriguing layer to the excursion. But the real highlight was walking a section of the River Brent I’d only glimpsed while crossing its course. Surprisingly, in all my previous walks through this terrain, I never set out with the sole intention of following the course of the Brent, from its starting point here at Brent Cross to its convergence with the A40 Western Avenue.
While the Brent often made cameo appearances in our previous explorations between Brent Cross and Perivale, it never received the attention it deserves. Today, the river itself took centre stage.
A Brief Detour to Brent Cross Shopping Centre
Before we embarked on our journey along the Brent, we made a brief detour to Brent Cross Shopping Centre. The confluence of arterial roads in this area creates its own power, with the Hendon Way and the North Circular intersecting. On the far side of these roads lies Brent Cross and, with the River Brent meandering through the concrete kingdom.
Brent Cross was the UK’s first out-of-town shopping mall, opening in 1976. The grandeur of this place left a lasting impression on me when I visited as a kid in the early 80s. In Patrick Keiller’s seminal film London, the central character Robinson chooses Brent Cross as a location to write poetry, in the spirit of Parisian flâneurs haunting the 19th century arcades. The scene in Keiller’s film also subtly invokes Walter Benjamin’s epic Arcades Project.
We caught sight of a small intense man sitting near the fountain reading from a book by Walter Benjamin. Robinson embraced this man and they talked for a long time. But when he tried to call him later he found that the number was a public telephone in a street in Cricklewood and we never saw the man again.
London, Patrick Keiller, 1994
Robinson and his friend later return to the Brent Valley to walk along the River Brent.
Liv and Milo
The River Brent’s Juxtaposition
Returning to the banks of the River Brent, a stark contrast unfolds. On one side lies the discarded refuse and the presence of rats scurrying through the undergrowth. On the other side of the road stands the towering cathedral of consumerism.
Such a stark juxtaposition makes me think of the river deities personified in the Rivers of London series of novels by Ben Aaronovitch. The abuse of this living body of water is intrinsically linked to the grand shopping centre beckoning with its enticing offerings.
A lost Londonvillage
After surviving a detour through the bowels of IKEA and it’s enormous car park, the river led us to the lost village of Monks Park. I’d first visited the area with Nick Papadimitriou for a recording of our radio show in 2009. This is an old Middlesex village absorbed into the West London industrial belt that followed the Brent, the name now largely erased beyond the recreation ground. I discovered Monks Park from the same source as Nick, in fact it played a pivotal role in how we first bonded. It’s the subject of a chapter in Gordon S. Maxwell’s The Fringe of London published in 1925 (which I never stop mentioning) ‘Rural England. Four miles from the Marble Arch.’ When I first found Maxwell’s book I became convinced that Patrick Keiller must have encountered it when making his first short filmStonebridge Park shot nearby in 1981. A subsequent email to Keiller many years ago revealed that it was merely a coincidence.
Monks Park walk, 2009 – photo by Peter Knapp
The End
At the A40 our walk conjoined with my northbound strolls along the Brent from Brentford through Perivale, and so I wandered with Liv and Milo along the Western Avenue to Hanger Lane tube. It’s a walk that even 3 months later sits in my mind calling me back.
