Roger Deakin on Iain Sinclair

Iain Sinclair has been writing about King’s Cross and St Pancras, and Aidan Dun. He returns yet again to Dun’s 1955* poem ‘Vale Royal‘ about Blake’s vision of St Pancras as a sacred place, a centre of energy, with St Pancras, the boy martyr, presiding over it, with Mary Wollstonecraft buried there, and Thomas Hardy’s ash tree rising, growing out of a rubble of gravestones like a stack of books in a bookshop. A tree rising out of the dead – Yggdrasil, the world tree, a great symbol of life in the face of the developers who have been under criticism for expunging this place ever since Dickens wrote his great passage on the coming of the railway to Camden in Dombey and Son.”

Roger Deakin ‘Notes from Walnut Tree Farm (pub 2009) – written some time 2000-2006

*Note: Vale Royal by Aidan Dun was published in 1995 not 1955.

Exploring Telegraph Hill and Nunhead

Just turning left instead of right can change your whole perspective on your surroundings. If I’d done that when leaving my front door during the six months I lived in New Cross Gate in the early 90’s then my impression of that area would be completely different. As it is my memories of the only time I lived south of the river are of walking from my flat at the foot of Telegraph Hill to New Cross Gate station to travel into the West End where I worked, and occasionally coming home on the 53 bus which stopped near the end of my road. Had I turned right instead on a rare day off (Sundays) then I would have ascended Telegraph Hill and enjoyed some of the best views of the City skyline (which would have looked quite different back then).

But it never happened for reasons that I can’t accurately remember. I’d loved exploring all the other areas I’d lived in London around Forest Gate, Harringay and Hackney – my roaming on foot taking me from Barking to the West End and from Mare Street through Islington and Hampstead to Muswell Hill and Crouch End. But until this summer I’d never been to Nunhead despite it being a relatively short stroll from New Cross Gate.

New Cross Gate
View from Telegraph Hill Upper Park
view from Telegraph Hill Upper Park
Nunhead mural
Nunhead Cemetery
Nunhead Cemetery

Having made a couple of trips to Nunhead Cemetery in the past six months, I decided to put right this wrong of the past and plotted a walk from New Cross Gate to Nunhead Cemetery and then down to Nunhead Green. It became an almost perfect autumn walk with the bronzed leaves scattered across Telegraph Hill Upper and Lower Parks. Nunhead Cemetery has cemented itself as my favourite of the Magnificent Seven London cemeteries. Nunhead Green was the perfect place to conclude the video, where the head of a Mother Superior of the convent that stood on the site was said to have been placed upon a spike during the Dissolution of the Monasteries. One commenter on the video reported that her ghost was said to haunt The Old Nun’s Head pub.

Packing my camera away I closed the loop of the walk munching on a bag of chips and revelling in reconnecting with those six months spent living on Telegraph Hill. It’s a period that turned out to be a pivotal point in my life, ending with my departure to head off with a round-the-world plane ticket on a journey that lasted three years, led me to my wife and in many ways has never really ended.

What’s my most difficult walk and other questions

Part 2 of my epic Q&A video where I answer more of your fantastic questions about London and walking. Please subscribe for regular videos

Related videos:
Leytonstone Centre for Contemporary Art
The Legend of Horsenden Hill
The Legends of Islington

Some of the questions:

  • At the moment I’m working in Waterloo. I’ve become enamoured with this area. Could you walk though it for documentation before it’s lost to “gentrification”.
  • What’s the best area/borough to leave in London now having children comparing with safety, spending and commitment?
  • Worked in London in the seventies and on my time off used to hop on tube to go visit to get to see different places. Did that mean I was an early psychogeographer ?👍
  • In what ways have areas of London like Clerkenwell, KX and Shoreditch changed in your time in London? All have the air of massive transformation, with Exmouth Market now feeding Clerkenwell office workers, the many pubs, bars and restaurants of Shoreditch catering to East Anglian revellers and the incredible modernisation of the once derelict KX. Did you ever think such transformation was possible?
  • What’s your most memorable chance meeting while walking?
  • What is the most ambitious/difficult/technical etc. walk/hike you have ever attempted?
  • Please recommend a good walking shoe/ boot, suitable for walking on wet/ muddy grass in parks and open spaces.
  • If you could do your amazing walks in another UK city which would you choose and why?
  • John what happened to the rising Sun pond.Spent many happy hours fishing there and hiring a boat.

And many more….

Stroll from Lambeth to Sloane Square

Summer, already a distant memory. So it’s particularly pleasant as we head into deep winter to look back at this summer evening stroll from Borough Road to Sloane Square, drifting on the warm breeze.

For most of the way I more or less retraced the route of previous walks I took around 20 years ago when we lived in a small room in a former hotel near South Kensington Station. However I got drawn into Page Street by its chequerboard flats and got chatting to a resident who told me about the fascinating history of the area. I have to admit this was the first I’d heard of the Thames flood of 1928 .

I think this is one of those walks I’ll never tire of repeating – and I always seem to end up having a pint in The Chelsea Potter on Kings Road (although there are some suggested alternatives in the YouTube comments for when I do this next time).

Notable locations in the video: St George’s Circus, Imperial War Museum, Lambeth Palace, Lambeth Bridge, Thames House, Horseferry Road, Smith Square, St John’s Gardens, Page Street flats, Regency Cafe, Moreton Street, St. George’s Drive, Orange Square, Sloane Square, Royal Court Theatre.